Saturday, July 26, 2008

Climbing - Cameron Highlands - Malaysia

We formed a Conga Line and assualted some peaks around the town are staying in, some steep shit, sometimes the roots of the trees are like the rungs of a ladder. We had 2 british, 1 French, 1 Dutch, and 1 American who wants to be a millionaire and wheel of fortune contestant in our line.

Me and another guy Richard ran up this path and recoiled in fear when we saw this mac daddy scoprion hanging out, bloody hell! We poked it with grass then left it alone.

Scenic Vistas

Tea in the Cameron Highlands - Malaysia

Right-o. So you can take a bus from KL to this serene place up in the mountains, around 1500m. Its called the Cameron Highlands, we are staying in this pituresque backpackers called fathers, and meeting heaps of cool peeps. The first day we slept in -its so quiet here - and then hired a motorbike and visited the amazing places shown here on your left. These tea bushes are actually trees stunted to a convenient height to pluck from. We had a tea pot and a sandwich overlooking this valley - the Boh tea plantation - very famous in Malaysia. Its nice n cool, rains at night.
Apple pie.

















Easy riding

Kuala Lumpur - Malaysia



So a short 2 hr bus to KL from Melaka, and we were plunged into the most instense spot onour trip so far. Chinatown. We found our backpackers and settled in. It was a strange one, filled with friendly types that stay there for months at a time, hardly venturing outside, infact behaving quite nocturnaly, playing chess and watching dvds. The place had a welcoming and homely feel to it however. We stayed for 3 nights, apparently any longer than that and you never leave.

Things to do in KL - gigantic expensive shopping malls (we actaully saw the new batman here!), squashy chinatown markets, look at the petronus towers. Not that exciting really. But the Batu Caves were incredible. 30 mins on the local bus from chinatown. 250ish steps of pilgrimmage for hindu types, and an amazing natural cave at the top, filled with cheeky monkeys. The cavern roof is 100m above your head, and weeps on the cave floor.


Megan clutches the yellow bible after a delicious meal in the Indian district. Quite often we find ourselves the only westerners where we stop, even though the streets themselves seem to be teeming with them. We are eating everything on the trip, meat, seafood, even ice in the drinks if the place looks ok, and our health is picture perfect. Its really good not to have to worry as much as we thought we would about what we put in us.

The last pic is the view from the 41st floor of the petronus towers. Its free to go up if you dont inlcude the hour long wait for tickets and the petroleum company propoganda conveyer belt they put you on before you get your 10 minutes on the viewing bridge. The bridge is only about 1/3 the height of the towers themselves

Melaka - Malaysia

Well we left Tioman and caught a 5 hr airconditioned horror/porn movie viewing bus to Melaka, the site of earliest european contact in Malaysia - Portugeuse in the 15th C, and Dutch 100 years later, then the bloody british as well. As a result its place that shows off it fusion of cultures. Its vibrant and busy, with cool old ruins to explore and museums up the yin yang. We stayed with eccentric hippys in chinatown, where we had timed our stay beautifully for the night markets, shown here. Check out the grandest Kareoke stage ever in the centre.
Bloody choice shop.

So tempting to buy things in the market, I thought of lots for myself and Megan thought of lots for everyone but herself. We held back though cos there will be many more markets to come. This one had a locally crafted bent though, which was refreshing - not so many prada and LV imitations. We spent our money on the great food, piecing our dinners together from several stalls.

Of course we had a trishaw ride the night we got there, to help get our beaings for the place and to look at things to do the next day. 10 ringit to be pedalled around for 25 minutes, and Josh and I had a go racing each other , not exactly built for speed tho!
fancy a dip into a bubbling vat of goodness? hold meat in there to cook it yourself, then at the end they count the leftover sticks to figure out the price.
We watched the first half of a chinese opera with the rest of chinatowns grey parade and their grandchildren, fun to try and pick what the hell is going on!

So after 2 nights here we headed to KL. Thanks Melaka!

Tioman Island - Malaysia

On the ferry to Tioman Island. We have just travelled all day, flying from KK in borneo back to Johor Bahru (skode hole) sadly said goodbye to Jam, then taxi (believe it or not) for 2 hours to Mersing on the east coast. This is the departure point for the famous Tioman Island, a sizable place about 2 hours from the coast covered in jungle but dotted with sandy beaches and hidden coral treasures.
We stayed in ABC, a tiny place with no roads, just a path that winds along the coast for about a kilometre, and the main trunk line for plenty of restaurants and backpacker places. We found a cool hut for the 4 of us to share. Powercuts were rife, and even water cuts, so it was candles and a sleepless night without the fan! Depicted here is a typical day. 4 nights here meant a rest from the constant hopping we'd been doing, a holiday from our holiday sort of.
Pub - reggae blasting.
Alcahol - Tioman is duty free, so we walked 40 min to buy 2 bottles of rum (19 ringit each or about NZ$7.50) and bought them back. This place even kept our coke we mixed it with cold for us! Beer is not cheap anywhere, relative to everything else anyway.

View from our hut.

Fire on the beach -why not?

Saturday, July 12, 2008

Manukan Island, Kota Kinabalu - Borneo

Back in KK Meg, Camilo and myself recuperated at a nearby island, snorkeling in huge schools of fish, and reading books on the beach. Choice.

We dug holes.

Camilo.

Mt Kinabalu World Heritage Site - Borneo

We caught a bus at midday to an altitude of 1500m - the Mt Kinabalu national park. Mt K is the highest peak in SE Asia at 4100m. Higher than Mt Cook even. Spectacular and gnarly in appearance.
Josh, Claire and Jam ascended while Megan and I stayed back, as Megan wasn't confident of fitness and altitude sickess issues. We made the most of the park though, walking around the lower trails for 5 hours, covering 10kms. The rainforest was beautiful, and at that altitude, very similar to NZ bush. 2 nights we stayed in the park, while the other comlpeted the 2 stage climb. They did 3 or 4 hours on the first day, then rose at 2am the next day to reach the rocky and slippery summit before spectacular sunrise. Apparently the 50 people allowed to climb each day were falling like flies, vomitting on the side of the track due to altitude sickness. One person was stretchered down! But they made it those rugged bastards, but were out of action for 2 days afterwards!

Megan and I met this Mexican guy- Camilo- who was also not climbing, and decided to travel together back to KK once the others got back down. He works for Canterbury Uni it turned out, but travels the world doing research. Good guy actually. We headed back to KK in the heaviest rain we had seen yet.

Kinabatangan Jungle Camp - Borneo

Micheal had contacted a jungle camp on the Kinabatangan River, off the beaten track a bit. So they picked us up from the ferry terminal after we got back from turtle island. Josh was sick, spewing part way through the 2.5 hour un air conditioned van ride. Travel till you spew! we were dropped off at a wharf then took a boat to this hut way in the virgin rainforest. It has alarmed electric fences to prevent elephants waking you at night inside the camp. This place was incredible!
We had 3 boat rides, all about 2-3 hours long. One afternoon, one at night and one at dawn. Phew! We saw baby crocodiles, a huge elephant herd, 3 varieties of monkey, a snake, exotic birds all over the show, wowow wee wow.

We alighted here and got up as close to the elephants on foot as we could, while they gorged themselves.
Birds are blind at night, so we could go up and touch them like this.
After our morning boat ride we were dropped back at the zoo-like sepilok oran utan rehab centre near sandakan for one night. Leeches were everywhere here! Claire and I braved them for a brief walk in torrential rain through the forest.

Sandakan and Turtle Island - Borneo

we arrived in sandakan late at night after our flight from KK. It was only a 45 min flight, and was free apart from the taxes. The hotel we stayed at has a famous dvd categorising system, shown here. The standout being 'Gigantic animal movie'. However no time for watching those, after a severely overpriced beer we slept, showered and departed for Selingang (Turtle) island, a 45 min boat ride from Sandakan


The owner liked to show off his catches. The wharf was accessed through a water village, which seem very common in Borneo, and can even be quite affluent.
This is Selingang, part of a group of 3 islands, swimming distance from the phillipines, where giant turtles like to lay there eggs. The beaches are littered with tracks every morning from females landing each night. A professional preservation programme for the eggs, including a hatchery, etc operates here and also runs the tourist side of it. 50 people are allowed on the island per night. It is definitly turtles before tourists here though. We were up close to a female laying at night, but pretty difficult to discern what was actually going on. We release tiny little babys into the sea though, apparently 0-2% of them survive.
This is our hut where we talked crap, and got shat on by geckos. We spent a good amount of time on the idyllic beach snorkelling. I saw a sea snake, and we came across a young turtle which we followed around for a bit.

Kota Kinabalu - Borneo

We left Brunei after one night. (this was enough time, theres not a truckload to do). We ferried back into the malaysian part of Borneo via Labuan Island. Kota Kinabalu is the place, and it is the capitol of the Sabah state of Malaysian Borneo. We found a sweet hostel, clean and friendly and right in town. There was an outdoor bar right downstairs, with nightly performances by a stunning trifactor of male keyboardist, and two dancing /singing girls, covering all the hits from the 80's. We stayed one night, but enjoyed it enough to book ahead for when we were back here again in 5 days.










This 86 year old chinese guy sat down with us and went through all his secrets to old age, including chewing this stuff to help your teeth (all of his had rotted away) and rubbing coconut paste on to cure cancer. he had 2 inch long white hairs sprouting from his ears.


Yum, these deep fried coconuty sugary things (3 for 1 ringgit, or 3 for NZ40 cents) from the market were the best food related discovery so far.

Brunei - Borneo

After an average experince getting from Singapore to Johor Bahru in Malaysia we flew into Miri, about an hour outside Brunei on the island of Borneo, where we are to spend the next 2 weeks. We met up with Josh and Claire here, and had a nice dinner and beer in the modest 'seahorse' town. The next morning we bussed through tedious immigration (5 buses) into Brunei, and oggled the oil rigs plunging the earth all over the place.
Brunei's capitol was a surprisingly awesome experience. Everybody is islamic, and are the friendliest most helpful and genuine people we have met yet. We had the best mangos in the market.
We took a 2 hour ride with a local who invited us onto his boat. We saw wild proboscis monkeys, and went through the largest water village in the world (29000 pop.), inside a house even, very humbling and special experience.

Singapore Zoo

Singapore Zoo was wowing, we spent almost 6 hours there, kind of a forshadowing of all the animals we would see in the wild in Borneo later. cage and enclosure boundaries were very hard to spot here, meaning a excellent simulation of natural habitats for the residents and the spectators.
Proboscis Monkeys or 'dutchmen' sport a permanent erection. This is it apparently.